The opener or the remote has stopped working

What has probably happened

• The remote battery is flat, or the remote lost its pairing after a power cut.
• The opener has no power — a tripped breaker or an unplugged unit above the door.
• The drive gear inside a chain opener has stripped: the motor runs but nothing moves.
• The logic board has failed, often after a power surge or a lightning storm.
• The travel limits have drifted, so the door stops short or reverses.

What the technician does

• Diagnosis first — remote, power, gear and board are all quick to tell apart.
• Gear and sprocket kits, logic boards, capacitors and limit switches replaced where the unit is worth keeping.
• New openers fitted where the old one is beyond sensible repair, with the door balanced first so the new motor is not fighting it.
• Remotes, keypads and phone control set up and tested before the technician leaves.

Questions people ask

Repair or replace?

A gear kit or a board on a sound unit is usually worth doing. An opener that is very old, has no rolling-code security, or has a failed motor is usually money better spent on a replacement. The technician will give you both numbers.

My remote works but the wall button doesn't.

Usually the wall control or its wire rather than the opener itself — one of the cheaper faults.

Can I get one I can open from my phone?

Yes. Most current openers offer it, and some older units can take an add-on. Mention it when you book so the technician brings the right part.